The Times
Giles Coren found “all I could have dreamt of” at a “cluttered, eclectic, eccentric” restaurant near the seafront – most importantly, some “proper cooking” from Le Gavroche-graduated chef Michael Newton-Young, who had “the twinkle-eyed, world-weary confidence of a properly trained chef who could cook you anything you wanted.”
The menu started with chicken liver parfait, steak tartare and warm asparagus with poached egg and parma ham all £9.50, but Giles paid the £8 supplement for five delicious, ham-wrapped scallops with asparagus and beurre blanc. “Then I had the pan-roasted chicken supreme with morels and vin jaune – one of my favourite dishes in the world – done beautifully with fine beans and mashed potato.”
An excellent tarte tatin and a kindly priced wine list sealed the deal.
Giles Coren - 2026-07-05
