The Times
Charlotte Ivers sampled the Sunday roast at Tommy Banks’s latest venture – “the best located pub in Britain”, adjacent to the beautiful ruins of Byland Abbey and so close to the Banks family’s own farm that the beef she ate had “relatives still toddling around in the adjacent field”.
As a result, she said, “the beef is — and there’s no other way of putting it — quite viscerally beefy. So moist and fleshy that it feels half-alive, as though it was sliced off the cow’s rump as it passed by, and the beast waddled stoically on”.
Charlotte also rated the Yorkshire pud, although her roast potatoes were not quite crisp enough and the desserts were “silly” and “ultra-sweet” variations on soft-serve, Mr Whippy-style ice cream. But she was here for the beef, and even doubled up by ordering a starter of Dexter beef tartare that again hit the spot with “firm, precise cubes of nearly sweet beef”.
Charlotte Ivers - 2024-09-01
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