The Observer
Chitra Ramaswamy doubled up for her second review of the week, spending "three joyously sybaritic hours” at the new bistro from acclaimed Irish chef Peter McKenna and Kevin Dow, “the most loved maître d’ in Glasgow”, in the same Finnieston premises they ran as the Gannet for 12 years before a flood closed it last year.
The new incarnation, Chitra suggested, may be even better than its predecessor, having replaced tasting menus with the relaxed elegance of a classic Parisian bistro. “Think beef tartare decorated with droplets of wasabi purée, served with roasted bone marrow popped back in the bone, to be spooned on to the coarse chop of raw fillet until it gleams like an oil painting by an Old Master... It eats like butter, and is the bright magenta of my daughter’s felt tips.”
An Irish ribeye steak was outstanding, and arrived with a “divine, and bovine, bordelaise sauce made with the trimmings, glossy with, yes, more bone marrow, and a sublime Café de Paris butter”, while John Dory cooked with house-grown mushrooms and chicken butter sauce was “pure cream-drunk indulgence”.
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-07-05
