The Guardian
Grace Dent found a “little patch of sanity” amid the gentrification of the 2012 Olympic zone, in a new all-day venture by the canal that is “Irish in spirit” – in its warm welcome, “fantastic fresh potato farls at breakfast”, fresh-baked Guinness cake, "Guinness on draft, of course", Irish breads rich with treacle and rye, mince on toast, and oysters from the west coast of Ireland.
But, she insisted, the venue “isn’t Irish-themed”: instead, its overall cooking style is "fresh, hyper-seasonal and absolutely homemade".
“At night, the dinner menu reaches for deliciously lofty moments when rare duck and cucumber meet tahini and sweet, punchy hoisin, when a tranche of Cornish turbot comes festooned with sea vegetables, when elegant house martinis match with delicate watermelon salads, and when hunks of rare onglet come piled with excellent, al dente bobby beans and assertive homemade horseradish.”
Grace Dent - 2025-09-01
