The Times
Jay Rayner sampled this collaboration between “seafood maven” Tom Brown (ex-Cornerstone and Pearly Queen) and the “carnivorous” Brad Carter (ex-Carters of Moseley), who “stick resolutely to the idea that surf and turf don’t merely have to cohabit; they can mount each other rigorously.”
Hence dishes like squid stuffed with sobrasada salami; kofta of duck minced with mussels; and beef flank mashed with whitebait and deep-fried – “brash” flavours on a menu that is “the edible equivalent of a Roy Lichtenstein canvas. It’s all ‘Wham!’, ‘Blam!’ and ‘Pop!’.”
If these “flavour bombs can become relentless”, Jay conceded, the venue is aimed firmly at a younger crowd and is “all huge fun and also completely bonkers” – while he also ventured to suggest that “a little inebriation” might help one’s enjoyment of the experience.
Jay Rayner - 2025-09-28
