The Guardian
Grace Dent was the first critic to visit Adam Byatt (of Trinity in Clapham)’s “heavenly-white neighbourhood Italian” just off Wandsworth Common, declaring it a “surefire hit” – an “achingly civilised, Emilia Romagna-influenced, candlelit trattoria where the cloakroom tags are actual Amalfi Coast pebbles engraved with numbers” and the weekly laundry bills for the tablecloths “must make the accountants weep”.
Its environs are thick with wealthy hedgies, but some of Rosina’s prices are “staggeringly pocket-friendly”, including cavatelli cacio e pepe at just £8 and “post-service pasta” (spaghetti with anchovy, chilli and garlic) at £16 – which is also “the first time I’ve seen a restaurant give a glimpse into what its owner eats after hours. More of this, I say.”
A carpaccio of wild sea bass with chilli, Amalfi lemon and a clean, sharp, precise olive oil shifted Grace’s view from “this is perfectly pleasant” to “holy god, this is really quite special”. This was confirmed by a couple of “genuine death row delicacies”: a white risotto that was “a sensory bombardment of unctuous gloop” and some “absolutely remarkable” roasted baby spuds. Turbot was perfectly cooked and tiramisu, whose recipe was credited to an Italian woman called Pina, was “wet, light and stodgy in all the right places”.
Grace Dent - 2026-09-13
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