The Guardian
The first critic into print on Clare Smyth’s snazzy bistro, Grace Dent‘s appreciation of the Northern Ireland-born chef’s upmarket take on comfort food (complete with a potato menu and a Hibernian tiramisu flavoured with Jameson’s whiskey) was undermined by the relentless soundtrack of “British dad rock” that accompanied her meal, from Status Quo and the Stones to Clapton and Oasis.
Pitched as a cheaper alternative to Smyth’s flagship Core, where the seven-course tasting menu comes in at £265 per person, Corenucopia is still extremely expensive, Grace noted. A crispy veal sweetbread starter costs £32, Dover sole and chips or turbot with vin jaune sauce £52 and £64 respectively, and a single profiterole with Tahitian vanilla cream filling £22.
That said, the food is “a delight. This is cosseting, decadent, calories-be-damned cooking. Grilled olives on skewers with eel and timut pepper? Absolute bliss. An ornate smoked salmon paté topped with dill jelly and served with mini buttered crumpets? Wonderful.”
Grace Dent - 2026-01-18
