The Times
Jay Rayner was another critic to remind readers this week that “in certain London postcodes the stupidities just keep on coming”, after visiting the recently opened outpost of a venture that began life in Ibiza. A waiter set the scene by promising food that was “Greek and Mediterranean with a Japanese twist, a declaration which could cause an international incident”.
This approach led to dishes such as spicy crab tagliolini with mint harissa and pineapple chutney, which “reads like ingredient bingo” in Jay’s view, or tarama topped with kaffir lime sauce, “which makes it taste like an aromatherapy candle by Jo Malone, and not in a good way”.
“Every dish we have is a tweezered, over-thought calamity: too sweet, too salty, too aromatic, too in thrall to the tongue-deadening demands of umami, and no amount of edible blooms or grinding beats will disguise the fact.”
Jay Rayner - 2026-07-19
