The Guardian
Grace Dent could barely disguise her disappointment at this comeback restaurant from David Thompson, the chef credited with bringing authentic fiery Thai cuisine to London more than 20 years ago. Some of the dishes, she admitted, were “delicious” (namely the beef skewer and the tapioca with coconut and corn dessert), but the menu is “startlingly brief” at just four starters, seven mains with steamed jasmine the only rice option and the briefest of nods towards pudding.
“’Long chim’ translates loosely as ‘come and try, and you literally could try everything here on a single visit”, she said – so the offer felt “somewhat meagre” compared with nearby modern Thai spots Kiln and Speedboat. It’s “punchily priced”, too.
Grace Dent - 2024-12-22
