The Guardian
Grace Dent was decidedly unimpressed by a restaurant created around in-jokes by Malaysian YouTube comedian Nigel Ng, better known as Uncle Roger. The whole effect, she said, was rather like seeing “memes that you thought were funny nine months ago, but are now photocopied in the parish newsletter”.
The “British classics” section, complete with references to Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay, promised ingenious takes on traditional dishes such as ‘choco-orange ribs’. “Winner winner, Uncle Roger’s making dinner. This dish is bound to work,” Grace thought. “But it doesn’t. It’s hideous. It’s just ribs in a weird, brown sludge that’s neither chocolate nor orange, and more vaguely umami seepage.”
Chicken Wellington was even more peculiar. “Who is this food for? Children won’t eat it. Adults might once, but never again.” Across the room, Grace spotted a woman “with a face that resembled Edvard Munch’s scream”, poking the electric-blue pudding dumplings on her plate.
Grace Dent - 2026-07-12The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell was no kinder to Uncle Roger’s new restaurant, castigating its “flabby” cooking and unfunny jokes. His dessert, an Asian version of chocolate fondant, “promised a ‘Happy Ending’, but in reality it was like eating a chocolate-covered flip flop”.
“Kawan is as tasty as it is funny, which reminds me of when I went to see Reginald D Hunter at The Derngate in Northampton. Not worth the journey and a roomful of straight faces.”
William Sitwell - 2026-07-12
