Evening Standard
Josh Barrie dined among the one per cent at a new Japanese spot from Markus Thesleff’s Los Mochis group – the sort of place, he said, where people order champagne without thinking about the price: “friends taking a break from Dubai, one or two low-level footballers, and an Indian gentleman who I’m quite sure owns an airline”.
Josh dodged the signature dish of ‘flaming avocados’, but found that, “bar a rock shrimp tempura which is sadly soft, the food is much better than cynics like me might expect”.
Kobe beef, “Japanese Black cattle in this case — massaged, fed beer, played Bach and tickled into tenderness”, is “everything you’d want a £310 steak to be: faintly enchanting.” Even better was the rice, full-bodied and rich, packed with butter, garlic, onion, chives and toasted black sesame seeds: “If you eat anything here, ever, eat the rice.”
Josh Barrie - 2026-07-19
