The Sunday Times
Camilla Long was enticed to eat at the new showroom of US-based homeware behemoth Restoration Hardware in a 1720 Italianate palace behind the Royal Academy, on what turned out to be the false assumption that “it’ll be like meatballs at Ikea but for rich people”.
The menu in the vast Dining Room’s had about it “more than a whiff of room service”, Camilla said. As for the food, the deep-fried artichoke starter was “like eating potpourri”, while the caviar baked potato was “sort of withered”, the caviar mushy because it had been sitting on it too long.
Wagyu – “the national dish of Dubai” – was fine, although it arrived pre-sliced (“naturally, as the rich are toddlers”); ditto the lamb chops, although they were a bit overcooked and greasy. But a pear martini was “perfectly disgusting, with top notes of pesticide and a slice of dried pear floating like a body on top”.
Camilla Long - 2026-07-19
