Evening Standard
David Ellis was impressed by the Mexican food at a permanent new restaurant from Ed and Ollie Templeton which has replaced the wine bar adjacent to their well-known guest-chef showcase, Carousel.
Ollie, who runs the kitchen, has clearly learnt from his decade of hosting high-profile Mexican chefs, and “you sense now they may be cooking the food they’ve always wanted to. They offer only a little choice, as though every dish has been through checks and balances.”
David praised the food as “gloriously unkempt; the encouragement is to let any prissiness go”. Hits included strips of sesame-coated sea bream, thinly sliced tempura pumpkin, “bloody good fried chicken” and crab rice – “little bundles of crab meat dotted in the seafood-soaked rice, haystacks in a field, with a quenelle of smoked eel cream to whip through it”. On the debit side, a sharing dish of monkfish seemed pricey at £60.
David Ellis - 2026-03-15
