The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell hustled a table for the first night of full trading at “the hottest ticket in London”, earning bragging rights as the first national critic into print on restaurateur Jeremy King’s multimillion-pound revival of a revered institution dating back to 1828.
It was everything he could have hoped for, both in culinary terms and – more importantly for William – as a symbolic and political statement: “a monumental f–k you to the Labour Government… a vehemently aggressive show of defiance in a time of relentless attacks on hospitality.”
His meal was “the most fabulous hoot”, “a welcome blast of good cheer”, and “a theatrical tour de force” of chefs in extravagant crumpled hats, of silver salvers and the famous roast beef trolley. The food might be a “mere aside”, but it was perfect: Carlingford oysters and a classic prawn cocktail followed by the roast beef-on-wheels – “two large slices carved by the chef, pink and tender with melting fat” for “a vast Sunday lunch on a Tuesday night”.
William Sitwell - 2026-03-15Evening Standard
David Ellis was pleasantly surprised by the excellent cooking at this revival of the grande dame of London restaurants from Jeremy King, whose venues tend to prioritise atmosphere over cuisine.
The “bulging” suet pudding was “better than any I’ve had, the pastry light where often it is gloopy”, while broccoli and cauliflower cheese was another “best in class” which “showed someone in the building’s cavernous kitchens is making sure the small stuff isn’t overlooked”.
He also noted that the Grand Divan, its main dining room, looks and feels far better than it has in recent decades, now that “there is no flaking gold leaf [and] fractured woodwork has been healed”. The prices are generous, too, with starters from £9 and mains from £16 – which might explain why “the room is filled with all ages chatting furiously”.
David Ellis - 2026-03-22
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