The Guardian
Grace Dent tested the new concept from Nico Simeone, the “indefatigable” Scottish-Italian chef behind the Six by Nico chain. This would be very different, he promised – à la carte, focused on dry-aged meat and “not scalable”, although there are already branches in Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Grace was “bombarded from all sides” at what felt like a “bootcamp of flavours”, some of which worked better than others. First out of the kitchen was dry-aged beef tartare with oyster emulsion, looking like an oyster in a tempura shell. “Tartare purists will hate it; oyster purists will hate it more. But Six by Nico, and now Lennox, have never been about stiff rules.”
A halloumi shawarma with baba ganoush and rosemary flatbread was “really unappetising”, while lemon tart was served with red wine sorbet and rosemary: “three very assertive flavours in a death fight to dominate”. Grace’s favourite dish was the fish finger with katsu curry: “think elevated McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish dipped in those tiny pots of curry sauce.”
Grace Dent - 2026-07-26The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell sampled the new brand from the team behind Six by Nico, whose promise of “unapologetic, indulgent cooking” he modified to “a pedestrian, mixed bag… Mixed because the service is wonderful and the starters are terrific.”
The impressive starters comprised a Scotch egg enriched by black pudding that “makes you wonder why anyone would ever make one again with plain sausage meat”, a “feisty” squid dish doused in fiery buffalo sauce, a witty delivery of “fish finger” and a plate of corn ribs, “delightfully tickled by the flame, crunchy, messy and, with chilli, lime butter and chorizo”.
But the meal headed downhill with mains of linguine with clams, chilli, garlic and lemon that looked pretty, but was watery and lacking in taste; of admittedly “faultess” prawns and beef served with an “alleged” Cafe de Paris sauce that was a “perfect replica of Heinz tomato soup”; and a “truly horrific” plate of ‘hash brown’ served as “cake-sized wedges, like soaked bookends. Think eating a bible you’ve spotted floating down a river…. [it] should have just gone straight to the compost bucket.”
William Sitwell - 2026-09-13
