Cheshire Restaurant Guide

This “atmospheric old pub” in rural Cheshire from the Chester-based Brunning and Price group is a “great” place to drop by for “nice food from a menu with a wide choice”. It’s a handsome red-brick building with plenty of exposed beams, and an attractive canopied garden.

Olivier Troalen’s Gallic staple on the Cheshire outskirts “continues to be a top, most reliable choice for a high-quality dinner, year after year” (indeed some reporters have spent “over 20 years eating there”). “Chef is the owner with wife managing front of house”. “The menu is very French and very extensive”: no worse for being a little old-school, and a “treat when you fancy a return to the 1970s/1980s (it’s a kind of Oslo Court of the north)” with “a lovely northern Gemütlichkeit” to the place. Top Menu Tip – “do leave room for the Gâteau Paris-Lymm – an exemplary large choux bun, filled with a praline crème pat with hazelnuts, berries and salted caramel”.

“Almost next to Cholmondeley Castle gardens”, the ‘Chum’ is an “interesting conversion of a village school” (complete with “much educational memorabilia”) into a “quirky but deservedly popular inn” serving an “excellent selection of comforting local food”. It also “prides itself on having 366 gins at the bar” – “their own is excellent”. Top Menu Tip – “the steak-and-kidney pie is stonking, but not for the faint-hearted”.

This “very French” spot attracts a good volume of feedback suggesting it’s “worth seeking out” in rural Cheshire for the “inspired cooking” of locally born chef-patron Joseph Rawlins, who trained under Gordon Ramsay and has worked in Paris. He took over this well-established venue five years ago with his French partner, Gaëlle Radigon, who leads a “professional and engaging” front-of-house team.

Named in homage to a rocky outcrop that has long been a settlement for Buddhist monks, Don Buddhika’s black-fronted restaurant is “still going strong with its Sri Lankan speciality dishes” – small plates, curries, grills and more, with dedicated vegan and gluten-free menus. Besides this venture in the swanky Manchester ‘burbs, as of late 2023 they’ve also opened a second outpost a short drive away in the market town of Knutsford.

“Been several times and it is just the perfect neighbourhood bistro…” – no-one would seek the roots of a famous chain in Hoole (a gentrified but easily-missed inner suburb near Chester’s train station), but Gary Usher’s well-known Elite Bistros group has grown from these modest beginnings: a small backstreet operation founded in 2011. What is it that makes this “local brasserie style restaurant” a cut above? It’s the “consistently good food, wine and engaging and knowledgeable service”. “The ambience might depend on the clientele for that evening, as it’s fairly small – upstairs was very quiet on our visit, but that made it easy to have a conversation with our friends without competing noise”.

This “bustling” Victorian covered market offering a “good variety of high-quality food” “has been a focal point for revitalising the Altrincham economy”, with “Nick Johnson, the owner, always around to keep an eye on the operation, ensuring the stallholders maintain a very high standard”.

Another characterful pub in the Brunning & Price chain (a red-brick former warehouse with plenty of reclaimed décor including a bar made of old mahogany doors) in an appealing canal-side location between the train station and city centre. It’s a “noisy” and sociable sort of spot and the food is of “good dependable quality”.

“After a promising return, the food has dropped off quite dramatically”, according to a number of reports at this long-running culinary icon: a plush, if windowless chamber at the heart of a grand hotel, owned by the Duke of Westminster and next to the city’s emblematic Eastgate Clock. For many years under Simon Radley (here from 1998-2021), it was one of the then-few destinations in the North West to hold a Michelin star. More than one reporter this year opined that “having lost its star on Simon’s departure, it needs to improve considerably to justify the high prices”. One bright spark though – in the adjoining lounges there’s a “reliable afternoon tea: recommend the Gentleman’s version, which includes excellent fish sliders”.

“In the five-star hotel in the centre of town, right by the city walls”, this attractive brasserie sits right on the pavement of Chester’s pedestrianised main drag and a visit injects a good amount of glam mid-shopping spree. On the downside, service can sometimes be “lacking” and it’s not a price-competitive option…

“Recently moved [in August 2023] from a backstreet passage in Chester to a prestigious new location on Pepper Street and with considerably increased covers and ambience”: this “very smart” dining room is winning ever-greater esteem for its accomplished modern British cooking (it provided one Shropshire-based reporter with their best meal of the year) all served by “knowledgeable staff, which they have retained from the old venue”. There’s an à la carte menu of some ambition and for the full blow-out a tasting menu option with eight courses for £80 per person. Top Tip – at lunch there’s a cheaper set, with two courses for £30 per head. See also ‘Twenty Eight’.

The “great Spanish food” at Joe & Ben Wright’s Chester-based tapas operation has proved a winner over the past dozen years, replacing their popular bistro Joseph Benjamin and spawning offshoots in Altrincham and Salford, while in late 2024 they took over the former Greens site in West Didsbury. The no-reservations policy means “you risk waiting for ages – but at least they have a bar upstairs to wait in now!”.

A sweetly named, capacious and “consistently good village pub with bedrooms” that dates back to the 19th-century and is handy if you’re scooting along the M6 in need of a fix. In addition to a “welcoming interior” (courtesy of a hefty £2.5 million renovation back in 2009), there’s a “wide-ranging menu” of pub classics with a “few imaginative edges” plus real ales from local microbreweries.

Now landed in Knutsford town centre since 2022, this wine-bar restaurant originated in North London before relocating initially to the village of Audlem, thence here. Chef Chris cooks with sustainable and sometimes foraged ingredients while his partner, Laura, serves wines from small independent producers. Too limited freedback for a full rating, but one local fan says it’s “a small, friendly restaurant serving excellent food”.

“Very much a place to see and be seen” in Cheshire’s Golden Triangle – “great for celeb-watching and the waiters are proud of that” – this two-year-old from the national Italian stable is the result of a reputed £3m makeover, complete with palm trees and a terrace with a retractable roof. Investment has continued, with the addition of the 60-cover ‘Il Giardino’ for al-fresco dining last summer. Marcello Distefano, who now runs the group founded by his father Carlo, grew up in the area and knows the site well from its days as Brasingamens nightclub, a celebrated hangout for WAGs in the ’90s and ’00s.

Fka Sugo, then Sud, this fresh pasta operation is back where it started 10 years ago with a single site in Altrincham – the name change to Rigatoni’s and January 2024 relaunch having failed to save branches in Sale, Ancoats and central Manchestet’s Exhibition food hall. “The pasta remains the best you will eat despite the puzzling name change and revamp”, say fans – “it’s a shame some of Sugo’s old favourites couldn’t make the trip, but a promising new start!”.