East Molesey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

Lovely river views are a big draw to this bar and brasserie, whose glass-walled dining room and (above all) coveted terrace enjoy a “great” setting on the Thames near Teddington Lock. The modern European cooking (more “competent” than it is exciting, perhaps) nods to the location with plenty of fish and shellfish alongside afternoon teas – and, given the superb location and “friendly” staff (they also lay on regular jazz nights) it’s a decidedly useful sort of space.

“Yes, just a local pub – but owned by José Pizarro”, godfather of Spanish cuisine in the UK. Unsurprisingly, the maestro’s first gastroboozer-with-rooms (and first venture outside the Big Smoke) is “mainly tapas” and by most reports it’s “well worth a detour” to the Surrey ‘burbs, with “very good outdoor spaces” a further boon. Top Menu Tip – “especially good pork rib paella”.

“The plant-filled terrace was magical… it could be the wine, but I can’t remember anything standing out foodwise…” – this garden centre café just outside Richmond Park became an unlikely hit under chef Skye Gyngell 20 years ago, and – with its shabby-chic greenhouse setting remains “a lovely place for a meal on a nice day”, even if the food is nowadays undistinguished and “the prices definitely on the high side”. In summer 2024 it finally prevailed after an astonishing 18-year standoff with Richmond council over evening opening, which had threatened its survival as a restaurant.

This “restrained and rather old-school” Richmond gem “was always good but has improved in the last few years” to become a major culinary destination. Kenneth Culhane’s “refined” dishes are “cooked to perfection and beautifully presented” in the “lovely setting” of an Arts & Crafts house next to glorious Richmond Park. “Unobtrusive, efficient and friendly service” and an “interesting selection of wine” make every meal here “a very special experience”.

South African chef, Vanessa Marx has taken the reins (from Steven Edwards) at this attractive dining room – part of a boutique hotel, beautifully situated with a riverside garden in Richmond. Her menu is eclectic with a selection of small and larger plates. But while the reception to it has been a little up-and-down (“exceptional food, let down by a few off-kilter moments…”; “less cohesive than the previous dining experience…”; “expensive…”) its ratings overall are still pretty good all-round.

“The dangers of overextending the brand are writ large at these places” – the sub-sub-brand derivatives from the Theatreland classic, which haven’t taken off like the slightly posher ‘Ivy Brasserie’ spin-offs (perhaps because “they do this better at Côte”). They are not without supporters, who say they have fab locations and “look great” (SW19 is particularly “delightful”); or that although “supper is terribly disappointing, for breakfast they are an absolute joy enhanced by the refined surroundings”. Too often, though, they are dismissed as a “so-so brasserie chain that’s only really aiming for gullible out-of-towners” nowadays.

Taken over by Simon King and Matt Larcombe, ex-head chef of The Crown at Bray, three years back, this smart red-brick former beer house in the Surrey ‘burbs enjoys a “lovely setting” (“the opening of the beautiful garden last year is a lovely addition for warm summer evenings”). At the pass, “new chef Dan (Lee) has done brilliantly to retain the standards of this ‘fine-dining’ pub”, turning out “outstanding” and modern takes on British pub grub – though a visit can get “pricey” (especially if you avail yourself of the rarer vintages on the wine list).