Greater London, Italian - Restaurant Guide

There’s a Sicilian spin on the menu of Fabrizio Zafarana’s “decent old-fashioned Italian”. It’s easily missed on an unlovely section of the Grays Inn Road, but those who report on it are uniformly upbeat on its cuisine, and loyal support has sustained it for over a decade now.

“Seemingly effortlessly classy and convivial” – these attractive spinoffs from the national San Carlo chain provide “casual dining with Italian small plates in a lively setting” and can be particularly “great for a pre-theatre meal” given their “very convenient locations for the West End” (including a stone’s throw from Piccadilly Circus). There are drawbacks though: “quality of the dishes is a little variable”; “tables are squeezed in”; and conversation can be “difficult” (“this place is described as ’buzzy’, for which I would read loud”).

“An enjoyable tapas-style menu in Covent Garden” is served at this two-floor venue near the Royal Opera House: a lively spot “with quite a lot of its former pub architecture retained”. Part of the Salt Yard Group, Hispanic flavours are to the fore here as well as some Italian inspirations. Top Menu Tips – “the broccoli and courgette tempura are two standout dishes”; “pan con tomate is particularly good”; “good orange panna cotta with matching ice cream”.

“Twenty years old and still a reasonable choice” – this duo serving Spanish/Italian tapas “remains a cut above the average”, at both the original Fitzrovia original venue and a newer site in Borough Market (an outpost at Westfield Shepherd’s Bush was short-lived). However, “there are now many more similar places available” than when quality tapas seemed a rarity in the capital, and some long-term fans dwell on the fact that they’ve “gone downhill” over the decades, now feeling “slightly more expensive than they should be”.

“Twenty years old and still a reasonable choice” – this duo serving Spanish/Italian tapas “remains a cut above the average”, at both the original Fitzrovia original venue and a newer site in Borough Market (an outpost at Westfield Shepherd’s Bush was short-lived). However, “there are now many more similar places available” than when quality tapas seemed a rarity in the capital, and some long-term fans dwell on the fact that they’ve “gone downhill” over the decades, now feeling “slightly more expensive than they should be”.

It’s hard to keep up with this “lovely Soho old-timer” which was founded in 1971 but has shifted location twice since it first opened its doors (most recently in 2021 from Poland Street). First timers say “what a surprise, it’s really good!” and those in-the-know (who include former Prime Minister, Gordon Brown, who had his engagement party at the former site) appreciate it as “a very friendly family-run ‘real’ Italian restaurant in the heart of the West End”. “Delicious seafood and fish dishes” in particular are a highlight of the Umbria-inspired menu; and owner Paul Matteucci (son of Vasco) is “an exceptional host” (particularly once you are known as a regular). Top Menu Tip – “the carpaccio di tonno is outstanding”; and “the range, quality and value of wine is immense and very difficult to find in these inflation-hit days”.

With its “lovely Italian vibe in Charlotte Street”, this Fitzrovia townhouse provides a high-quality, under-the-radar experience. Launched in 2019, it’s a slightly offbeat part of hotel group The Stafford Collection, although aside from its smart interior that’s the only hint of a wider group connection. The cooking is inspired by the crossover of southern Italian and Moorish cuisine (“I fell in love with Sicily a year or two ago and this is what I’ve been looking for!”) and the culinary offering is “delightful (albeit not cheap)”. Top Menu Tips – “the spaghetti fritters are more addictive than crack!”; and “the set lunch is an absolute steal”.

The aims are classical at this Italian four-year-old near the Bank of England, where the elegant interior is provided by a converted Edwardian banking hall (built in 1902). There’s a wide variety of menus and eating options, including a good-value set lunch at £30 for two courses and £34 for three. Feedback is limited but all positive.

Amidst the gents’ outfitters of Jermyn Street (whose suave suits and shirts clad many of the clientele here), this popular stalwart (founded in 1945) is a super-convivial rendezvous for its St James’s pack of wealth advisors, art dealers and property agents; and it is “buzzing” (from its popular breakfast-time onwards) at its “closely spaced tables” (“not too bad if you are seated by a wall, but potentially claustrophobic in the middle of the room”). In that vein, it’s a “fun experience with a high standard of service and care”, plus “great Italian food”. A caveat? “Everything works but the prices are a bit daft”.

This “glitzy ‘see-and-be-seen’ Italian” in the ever-more chic environs of Lower Regent Street is the London flagship for Carlo Distefano’s national chain, which was founded in Birmingham in 1992 and expanded to most UK cities before hitting the capital in 2012 (the group also has a number of simpler ‘Cicchetti’ locations around town, see also). The aim is a traditional one: an “extensive menu” of classic dishes delivered in a golden glow of crisp tablecloths and smartly dressed servers. The food is consistent, if fully priced; and the service can be “attentive but lacking charm”.

“Upmarket Italian” – associated with a lifestyle brand originally specialising in yachtie apparel, these luxurious all-day cafés aim to recreate the retro glamour of 1950s Italy, complete with deep blue awnings, wood panelled walls and white-jacketed staff. At their best they are a “lovely dining experience”, but – especially given the aspirational pricing – they sometimes fall short of their aims with an offering that can seem “mass and carelessly produced”.

“Seemingly effortlessly classy and convivial” – these attractive spinoffs from the national San Carlo chain provide “casual dining with Italian small plates in a lively setting” and can be particularly “great for a pre-theatre meal” given their “very convenient locations for the West End” (including a stone’s throw from Piccadilly Circus). There are drawbacks though: “quality of the dishes is a little variable”; “tables are squeezed in”; and conversation can be “difficult” (“this place is described as ’buzzy’, for which I would read loud”).