Thornbury, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

If it was good enough for Henry VIII’s honeymoon with Anne Boleyn… – wood panelling, mullioned windows, oil paintings and plush furnishings abound at this luxurious Relais & Chateaux property (built in the 1520s). It’s maintaining its standards despite a recent change of personnel: “it saw several key changes earlier this year with the departure of the hotel manager, sommelier and notably chef, Carl Cleghorn. A recent visit, however, showed the new chef very much rising to the occasion, with two dinners showing very good cooking continuing the high standards. Service was friendly and staff personable throughout. A very enjoyable experience in an astounding setting”.

Jan Ostle & Mary Wilson have established their “truly exceptional” if apparently modest Redland outfit as “one of Bristol’s best” in the past nine years, offering “superb clarity of tastes and textures throughout a perfectly judged no-choice menu in a laid-back setting”. Much of the produce is home-grown on their two-acre plot, then transformed by “fine, imaginative and superbly executed cooking”. It is also “a relative bargain”.

“Lovely neighbourhood restaurant worth travelling for” from Craig Summers & Giles Coram (ex-Wallfish Bistro) – “producing superb food with intense and complementary flavours”, backed up by a “wide range of wine available by the glass and carafe”. There’s “lovely relaxed service”, although “more soft furniture is needed – it’s very noisy when full”. All in all, “not cheap, but excellent value given the quality of the cooking”.

“As quirky as ever” – this “imaginative tapas” restaurant occupies the upper floor of a restored and operational mid-Victorian swimming baths in Clifton, so diners have “unique views of the swimmers below, making an interesting change from the standard restaurant experience” – “in summer, life here feels a little Mediterranean”. Top Tip – the £50 all-in swim, spa and eat packages.

“Amazed more people aren’t raving about this place…” – Jamie Randall and Olivia Barry have run this conventional-seeming but ambitious venue in Queen’s Quay for nearly 10 years now. It perennially inspires quite limited feedback in our annual diners’ poll, but such as there is says its 12-course tasting menu for £80 per person is “very reasonably priced, creatively presented and very good”.

This Bristol-based steakhouse group with outlets in Cardiff and Birmingham wins praise for its “reliably good” performance – “Chateaubriand was good, well cooked and service very good with engaging staff”. On the debit side, one or two reporters find it “good but expensive – money could perhaps be more wisely spent elsewhere”; and “very noisy – not a venue for two or four but OK for a larger group”.

“An amazing little place in a shipping container in Bristol docks, with one chef and one waitress serving up great food” – former L’Ortolan head chef Elliott Lidstone and his wife Tess have run this 14-seater in the Cargo development for six years. Their “excellent, imaginative food and wine” – consumed in “an unpretentious if not overly comfortable setting” – represents “extraordinary value for money”, with a seven-course tasting menu at £55 per person. “It’s very busy, so you must book”.

Occupying a series of old shipping containers on the wharf, this contemporary, veg-led (but not just) sharing-plates spot opened in 2017, and has become a favourite among the city’s foodies. In December 2022, owners Josh Eggleton and Luke Hassell teamed up with chef Rob Howell and Meg Oakley to launch a sibling venue in Wells, Somerset.

This “brilliant neighbourhood Italian” from chef Pegs Quinn (ex-River Café) and his wife Mary Glynn is “so friendly and welcoming, it’s like being a guest in someone’s home” – “the room is nothing to speak of, but that doesn’t matter as it’s about the conviviality and the awesome cooking”. Top Tip – “the set lunch is tremendous value for cooking of this quality”.

“Set in fairy woods by a sparkling stream”, Chris & Kirsty Harrod’s restaurant with rooms sits peacefully in the beautiful Wye Valley and remains one of Wales’s foremost culinary destinations. “Known for their green credentials and sustainability”: “innovative foraged and locally sourced food is prepared by a chef who knows his onions and much else to create something unique and wonderful (if not for everyday)”. “Chris and his team always make you feel at home and are hugely knowledgeable”, while the “tasting menu and wine pairing are absolutely the best”. (“In a year of notable dinners at top restaurants – Gidleigh, Lympstone, Gravetye, Morston Hall & Kota – an overnight stay at Whitebrook proved to be the highlight. Chris Harrod’s imaginative and unusual menu was a joy from start to finish. Everything was well-balanced with confident cooking throughout. Service was informal, friendly and the atmosphere completely relaxing and unpretentious”).

Chef Freddy Bird and his wife Nessa (of Little French in Westbury Park) have taken over the former Rosemarino site in Clifton for this latest venture. Early feedback in our annual diners’ poll is upbeat and, in his February 2024 review, the Telegraph’s William Sitwell felt like he was being “pummelled by waves of gorgeous food”.

This comfortably decorated national chain feels akin to dining in a hotel, but minus the bedrooms; and its two London branches – near the Tower and in Putney – benefit from attractive Thames-side locations, where “it’s lovely to sit outside on a warm day by the river, or year-round in one of their igloo pods”. “There’s a warm fire inside with cosy armchairs”, too, which make the venues “fine for coffee or snacks”, although for more substantial meals “the food is only OK”.