Bankside, French Restaurant Guide

“Bistro food at its best” is given a decidedly modern British retread at this classy new, but traditionally decorated bistro in Borough Market, which has been a fave rave of the press critics in 2024. It’s from the team behind Soho’s Ducksoup; and the menu and website says it ‘leans into French regional cooking’ from ‘imagined jaunts’ through La Patrie. But the ultimate culinary result appears more like a Gallic glaze over modern British nose-to-tail cooking (e.g. Calf Brains, Broad Beans & Mint; or Lamb Heart, Peas & Ewe’s Curd). All of a fair number of reports rate the food good-to-exceptional.

From the team behind Maison François in St James’s, this autumn 2024 newcomer in Borough Market promises a ‘modern French canteen’ with influences as diverse as Montreal and California. Features include rotisserie chicken and pâtisserie from the in-house bakery.