Acton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Recently moved [in August 2023] from a backstreet passage in Chester to a prestigious new location on Pepper Street and with considerably increased covers and ambience”: this “very smart” dining room is winning ever-greater esteem for its accomplished modern British cooking (it provided one Shropshire-based reporter with their best meal of the year) all served by “knowledgeable staff, which they have retained from the old venue”. There’s an à la carte menu of some ambition and for the full blow-out a tasting menu option with eight courses for £80 per person. Top Tip – at lunch there’s a cheaper set, with two courses for £30 per head. See also ‘Twenty Eight’.

“After a promising return, the food has dropped off quite dramatically”, according to a number of reports at this long-running culinary icon: a plush, if windowless chamber at the heart of a grand hotel, owned by the Duke of Westminster and next to the city’s emblematic Eastgate Clock. For many years under Simon Radley (here from 1998-2021), it was one of the then-few destinations in the North West to hold a Michelin star. More than one reporter this year opined that “having lost its star on Simon’s departure, it needs to improve considerably to justify the high prices”. One bright spark though – in the adjoining lounges there’s a “reliable afternoon tea: recommend the Gentleman’s version, which includes excellent fish sliders”.

“In the five-star hotel in the centre of town, right by the city walls”, this attractive brasserie sits right on the pavement of Chester’s pedestrianised main drag and a visit injects a good amount of glam mid-shopping spree. On the downside, service can sometimes be “lacking” and it’s not a price-competitive option…

“Adjacent to the River Dee and with decking over the water”, this “consistent Brunning & Price establishment” in an old watermill certainly has “an idyllic setting, particularly in the summer months” when you can “spend a lazy few hours just absorbing some of the good things in life”. The food (“high-quality” gastrogrub fare) also elicits positive comments but it is indeed “the location which sets it apart”.

Another characterful pub in the Brunning & Price chain (a red-brick former warehouse with plenty of reclaimed décor including a bar made of old mahogany doors) in an appealing canal-side location between the train station and city centre. It’s a “noisy” and sociable sort of spot and the food is of “good dependable quality”.

“Having relocated from the original site on the Wirral to rural Shropshire”, Marc Wilkinson “greets, cooks, explains and serves a range of incredible dishes in his new venue near Oswestry”: part of his home (with the address provided on booking) and now more in the format of a chef’s table experience than during his days in Oxton. “Marc is a consummate professional and never fails to impress” with his £130 per person tasting menu (with bookings released on the 1st of each month): “a truly unique dining experience unlike any other”. As yet he is unlicensed, so you can BYO! – an incredible boon with a meal of this quality.

“Been several times and it is just the perfect neighbourhood bistro…” – no-one would seek the roots of a famous chain in Hoole (a gentrified but easily-missed inner suburb near Chester’s train station), but Gary Usher’s well-known Elite Bistros group has grown from these modest beginnings: a small backstreet operation founded in 2011. What is it that makes this “local brasserie style restaurant” a cut above? It’s the “consistently good food, wine and engaging and knowledgeable service”. “The ambience might depend on the clientele for that evening, as it’s fairly small – upstairs was very quiet on our visit, but that made it easy to have a conversation with our friends without competing noise”.

“Almost next to Cholmondeley Castle gardens”, the ‘Chum’ is an “interesting conversion of a village school” (complete with “much educational memorabilia”) into a “quirky but deservedly popular inn” serving an “excellent selection of comforting local food”. It also “prides itself on having 366 gins at the bar” – “their own is excellent”. Top Menu Tip – “the steak-and-kidney pie is stonking, but not for the faint-hearted”.

Stuart Collins racked up a stellar CV (via stints with Gary Rhodes, Michael Caines and Gordon Ramsay) before launching this “very intimate” fine-dining outpost, which landed like a foodie comet in this market town just east of the Welsh frontier in 2017. Still warmed by the mediatic glow of Stuart’s cameo on the Great British Menu, its classically informed cooking (FOH is overseen by wife Frances) revolves around an £85 tasting menu which now plays out over ten courses, rather than nine, making a “favourite difficult to decide” (but what matter when it’s all “simply superb”?).

This “atmospheric old pub” in rural Cheshire from the Chester-based Brunning and Price group is a “great” place to drop by for “nice food from a menu with a wide choice”. It’s a handsome red-brick building with plenty of exposed beams, and an attractive canopied garden.

“Great food, with all the elan of an Elite Bistros venue, but in a pub!” – Gary Usher’s crowd-funded boozer is “a pub AND restaurant, as opposed to a ‘gastropub’, and it does both jobs very well”. “Staff here are real stars and make everyone feel very welcome” and serve a “longer and more exciting menu than Kala and Sticky Walnut – amazing value for the creativity and quality of cooking”.

Launched next door to its sister restaurant – Chef’s Table on Pepper Street – this “interesting and welcoming” August 2023 arrival serves ‘British tapas from the field’, presided over by ex-Sticky Walnut head chef Jay Tanner, with much of the produce grown on the team’s pesticide-free farm, Field28. If anything, the spin-off is working even better than at the mothership, winning praise as “a really high-quality small-plates venue that’s as good as it gets” with “magnificent cooking from superb, creative menus” – from Sunday brunch through dinner – and “the friendliest service”. (Times critic Giles Coren made the pilgrimage and also declared himself a big fan in his April 2024 review: “Five of the sharing plates at this price could have fed two people easily with a great range of flavours. Astounding value. Just astounding”.)